What a wave. This wave is so fast, steep, green, and dense–it blew my mind. I found myself paddling out there until I could not bear to take another stroke. Simply epic. Everything was aerial and dynamic.
When people say that this is one of the best waves in the world, there is no question about it: It rocks. I would say as far as aerial tricks go, you can go bigger here more consistently than anywhere else that I have paddled. Its almost stupid and seemingly spoiling that you can get 2-4 huge tricks just in one ride. Additionally, it often comes in at the right water level in the spring then goes out for a short while then returns with the warm water in June (like right now!).
Instead of putting a billion photos up, I will just put a few then add the slideshow at the bottom as well. To see all of the photos, click HERE
This was taken at the second half of one of the biggest and coolest feeling freestyle tricks I have ever done. This was my last day at Mini-bus and happened in the afternoon. Usually, when you get to the top of this wave, you often get kicked to the toilet bowl on surfers left. Somehow the wave just let me go straight down and bounced perfectly into this grande. I remember rotating completely around and not feeling my paddle even touch the water. I then landed on a right edge upright and proceeded to auto-carve off the wave with a feeling of complete euphoria. Rad!
Look for eastern Canada to be in the upcoming LVM as an update. There should be some footage in there from Mini-bus and the creek race which I will cover in one of my next updates. Until then, see you on the water,
-Adam Johnson
2 Comments
yeah boi!!!! thats sick man good to see you out paddling again. i love dat shit
all the best evan garcia
Yeah dude. Bus-eater is good shit! Still paddling as much as ever, just less media to account for it. I believe I am starting to get on a creeking kick, so you may see more of that here.
Next time your in Morgantown, wv and it rains, we should paddle Deckers Creek–possibly my new favorite creek. Hard. Dangerous. Steep. Sick.
Cheers,
-Adam